Shop Front View
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Building June Marie.... by Dave Wilson THE SHOP: (1 - 8) 17 Aug 06 Building is 40' x 22', atttached to an old horse barn. The front view shows two 10' opening doors, and 2 windows. The end view shows one 12' opening door, with temporary paneling above it, with one panel on a pulley to lower for ventilation. The back of the shop has one opening window made from an old truck camper top (see pic 7). A lot of tarps & plastic coverings are used inside the shop, since the 26 guage tin roof, which was removed from a boat dock, dates to 1978, and leaks are common. THE TOOLS: ( no pics )
THE BOAT: (pic 9) 17 Aug 06 The design is called Tennessee by Phil Bolger of Massachusetts. It is 29' 11" long x 6' beam x 4' transom width x 4" draft. She gets 13 mph and 15 mpg using a 9.9 hp outboard motor. The model picture shows a cabin style not recommended by Bolger, that I may try at some future date. For this build, I'll stick closely to the original plans, which show a 4' high x 7' long cabin, and a 6'6" long cockpit. I plan to enclose the cockpit, and raise the transom to accomodate a 20" motor shaft length. THE LOG: 9 Sep 06 (Pics 10 - 13) Frames 1 through 4, showing cut outs before screwing & gluing. 23 Mar 07 (Pics 14 - 19) Frames 1 through 6, glued and screwed together over the winter....I'm a speed demon 25 Mar 07 (Pics 20 - 23) Starboard side panels, measured & cut out over the winter. 28 Sep 07 (Pics 24 - 30) Finally began placing the frames on the strongback, bottom up, so can put bottom on boat before turning over to add decks, cabin roof, and pilothouse. Alignment is crucial. Ran a tight line centered underneath the strongback. Later, found I needed another one ran a few inches over the top of the upside down boat frames. The temporary jigs used to hold the frames the proper distance above the strongback took some thought. The strongback represents the 4 foot high cabin roof line. I would make them of heavier timbers next time. One reason to do so is that the sides and bottoms of most of the frames must be beveled. I cut the side & bottom bevels for the transom pieces using the table saw before putting it together. Another reason to build strong temp jigs is that a lot of force is applied when nailing. The annular ring nails used are just as good as screws for holding power in tension, but can't take as much shear load as screws, so I used a mix of both. A boat this big requires A LOT of fasteners. In pictures 29 & 30, Notice the horizontal board under frame 8 with the white scale markings. These markings mean nothing, I'm just recyling the board, which was previously used as a rod pole when surveying for the farm pond. This board, and similar boards under frames 6 & 7 is located about 1 inch under the frame as a temporary support for the hull side panels while they are being aligned and atttached to the frames. When you work alone, you by necessity become a pretty good jig-man, 15 Oct 07 (Pics 31 - 32) These shots were taken while standing underneath the hull between stations 5 and 7, I believe. Remember, the boat is being built upside down. 25 Oct 07 (Pics 33 - 36) All side panels have been screwed to frames, transom and stem are glued & screwed in place. Now begins the chine logs attachment. I predrilled the screw holes, then spread the glue on the hull plywood and reattached the chine log for screwing and nailing down. Roughly 1 screw every 8 inchs, with nails between the screws. Both screws and nails are stainless steel. The more clamps the better! This first layer of chine log is also screwed into each of the frames it crosses. Notice picture 35? Wouldn't you know it, found voids in the B-C pine plywood the hard way! While attaching the butt block between two panels, the top left 2 screws could not be used due to voids, and the 4th screw down had to be repositioned. Not sure what to do about it! The location is right at the water line, and in my river travels there are sure to be driftwood hits exactly there! If you can afford it -- don't be "cheap like me"! |
Tom, Thomas & Dave!  |